Kitten Care

Congratulations on Your New Kitten!

Below, we have put together some needed information to help get you started. Remember to always seek veterinary advice if you are concerned, your pet needs medical attention or you need guidance.

Core Vaccines:

  • FVRCP (Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, Panleukopenia) - Administered every 3-4 weeks starting at 6 weeks of age until the last dose is given at 16 weeks of age or older.
  • Rabies - Administered initially between 12-14 weeks of age or older. Required by law.

Optional Vaccine:

  • FELV (Feline Leukemia) - Feline Leukemia Virus is a common disease that affects only cats. The virus cause destruction of the cat’s white blood cells and immune system. FELV is extremely infectious between cats, so a base immunity as a kitten is recommended even if the kitten will be indoor only. This vaccine is recommended for all kittens especially if the cat will be outdoors or if you plan to foster kittens in your home. It can be administered as early as 8 weeks of age. It is a one-year vaccine that needs a booster 3-4 weeks after initial dose.

Sample Kitten Vaccine Schedule:

  • 6 weeks - Start FVRCP (FELV/FIV testing can be done as early as 6 weeks for stray kittens  however it is less reliable).
  • 9 weeks - FVRCP booster, test for FELV/FIV (between 8-12 weeks) - begin FELV series (optional) .
  • 12 weeks - FVRCP booster - booster FELV (optional).
  • 16 weeks - Final FVRCP booster, Rabies.

Vaccine Reactions:

  • It will be normal after vaccines for your puppy to be tired and quiet until the next day.
  • We usually will have you wait 10-15 minutes after initial vaccines are given to make sure there is no immediate emergent reaction.
  • CALL US if your kitten is sore to the touch, won’t move at all, is limping, having vomiting or diarrhea or is not eating or drinking.
  • COME IMMEDIATELY BACK to us or the closest emergency clinic if your kitten’s face is swelling or your kitten is having any trouble breathing.

Vaccinations for Your Cat

  • Why does my cat need vaccines?
    • Vaccines stimulate the body’s immune system to detect infection and help the body fight against infection if necessary
  • Why does my kitten need a series of more than one vaccine?
    • Kittens get some antibodies from their mother when they nurse the first few times. If these antibodies are too high when vaccinated, it may interfere with the kitten’s own body’s immunity creating cells and therefore they need a series of vaccines.

What are the vaccines you are recommending for my kitten?

  • FVRCP – (Feline Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, Panleukopenia) combo vaccine
    • Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR) is a virus that causes upper respiratory infections, including sneezing, runny nose, and eye discharge. 
    • Feline Calicivirus Virus (FCV) is a virus that can lead to respiratory problems, mouth ulcers, and joint pain. 
    • Feline Panleukopenia (FPL) is part of the parvo family and is known as feline distemper, this virus can lead to severe vomiting, diarrhea, and dehydration.  
  • FeLV (Feline Leukemia) – very infectious virus between cats that suppresses the cats immune system so they are much more susceptible to cancer and other infections. We recommend testing prior to vaccination.
    • It is possible for a cat to be harboring this infection without clinical signs.
    • If positive, vaccine is not needed and the kitty can be kept away from other cats.
  • Rabies – highly contagious virus that affects the central nervous system (brain and spinal cord) in mammals.
    • This vaccines can only be administered by a veterinarian and it is required by law.
    • It is a zoonotic disease (can be given to humans) through bites, scratches and saliva.
    • It is 100% preventable by the vaccine.

Diet/Nutrition:

  • Recommended diets: Hill’s Science Diet, Royal Canin, Purina ProPlan, or any other AAFCO ( Association of American Feed Control Officials) certified brands, formulated by veterinarians, with food trials performed.
  • Feeding: Kitten formulated diet until 9-12 months of age.
  • Frequency: 3-4 times daily 1/3-1/2 can wet (3oz) or 1/4-1/3 cup dry - it is best not free feed. Pick up excess food when your kitten finishes eating. This will be helpful when determining if your kitten is eating enough and how much daily.

Flea/Tick/Heartworm Prevention:

  • Recommended year-round as these parasites NEVER go away in this area.
  • Even recommended in INDOOR cats as other pets or humans in the household can bring in parasites. Even indoor cats are at risk of parasite exposure when going to the veterinarian.
  • We recommend prescription flea/tick/heartworm products that have been proven to be effective in treatment and approved by the FDA. These products come with a guarantee that includes a refund or product replacement. When purchased through a veterinary clinic, customers may also be eligible for a pest control service reimbursement.
  • Ear mites can be very common in kittens and is very treatable. One option is to be treated with a monthly topical application of a Flea/Tick prevention that may also treats mites. There are other pharmaceutical products that can be dispensed to treat ear mites.
    • If your kitten has thick black discharge in the ears or is scratching incessantly at the ears, please let us know!

Heartworm Disease in Cats: 

It is a serious and potentially fatal condition caused by parasitic worms living in the blood vessels of the lungs and heart.

  •  They are transmitted through the bite of infected mosquitoes.
  •  Keeping a cat indoors only does NOT prevent infection as mosquitoes can get inside.
  •  There is no real treatment of this in cats.
  •  Prevention includes monthly oral or topical medications.
  •  Yearly heartworm testing is required for annual refills of the heartworm monthly prevention.

There are many flea/tick/heartworm preventative options in our online pharmacy COVETRUS. Let's discuss what product would be best for your kitten. There is always a risk using parasite preventatives. The most commonly reported adverse reactions include vomiting, itching, diarrhea, hair loss, decreased appetite, lethargy, and scabs/ulcerated lesions. Please monitor for these signs when using any parasite prevention If your pet experiences any of these symptoms please CALL US right away.

Feline Zoonoses (Diseases you can get from your cat!)

  • How are they spread?
    •  Saliva, bites or scratches, respiratory secretions, skin or hair, feces or urine.
  • Bartonella (Cat Scratch Fever) – causes fever and enlarged lymph nodes that develop near a cat bite or scratch.
    • Spread to cats by the feces of fleas, strict flea control is very important.
  • GI Parasites (there are many, here are some common examples: Tapeworms, Roundworms, Hookworms, and some strains of Giardia).
    • Avoid by deworming your cat, cleaning the litter box regularly - wash hands after cleaning litter box, using monthly preventatives.
  • Ringworm, is it really a worm?
    • Ringworm is a fungus that infect the kitten's skin, hair and nails, which can then infect humans.
    • Kittens may present with red, scaly, or crusty lesions on the head, ears, legs, or tail. Kittens may also appear very itchy.
    • Ringworm remains contagious for about 3 weeks from the start of treatment in pets.
    • It is very treatable and requires some regular housekeeping to control spread.
  • Toxoplasmosis
    • This disease is caused by the single-celled parasite Toxoplasma gondii (T. gondii).
    • Cats get the infection by eating infected rodents, birds or other small animals, keeping your cat indoors can help prevent so many dangers including this disease.
    • Only cats can pass this through feces and shed this for 10 days. (Rarely is this passed through touching the cat itself)
    • Pregnant women and those with severe immune deficiency are at great risk when cleaning the litter box or handling feces of an infected cat.

Intestinal Parasites:

  • We will screen your kitten on their first visit for intestinal parasites by submitting a fecal sample. If you did not bring with you on your first visit, you can drop it off at any time following your visit.
  • It is important to deworm your kitty more than once to make sure intestinal parasites are treated in different stages of the life cycle.
  • Most kittens are born with roundworms, and many have other intestinal parasites that we screen and treat for. If you are noting any worms at home in the stool, please call us! 

Spay/Neuter:

  • We recommend spaying or neutering your kitten around 6 months of age.  
    • An intact male may begin marking in the house after 6 months and an intact female may start to go into their first heat cycle after 6 months of age.
  • A preoperative exam and bloodwork is recommended before scheduling their procedure!

Microchipping:

  • We recommend HOMEAGAIN microchipping around the time you have your pet spay/neutered.
    • If you are worried about chipping your cute kitten, it can be done during their neuter or spay surgery so your pet is not awake for the injection.
  • A rice size microchip is implanted via injection into your kitten, subcutaneously, between their shoulder blades. Your kitten would be registered in the microchip data base with your information.
  • Microchipping is your permanent link to your pet, your pet’s ID code can be easily scanned by vet or rescue shelter.
    • If your cat were to get out, almost all shelters and veterinary hospitals carry microchip readers that can obtain your cat’s microchip number, the facility would contact the universal microchip website and acquire your information to contact you.
  • Newer microchips have temp scan capability allowing temperature checks without using rectal thermometers.
  • A yearly membership for the peace of mind that lost pets will get back to where they belong with 24/7/365 Pet Recovery, Medical Hotline and Found Pet Assistance.
  • International Travel requires microchipping.
    • If you are thinking of traveling with your cat or moving out of the country, your cat should be microchipped before their Rabies vaccine. This is very important to remember to avoid any paper work issues.

Pet Insurance:

  • Strongly recommended, as emergencies come up at ANY time and our pets are family!
  • Trupanion offers a free trial - 30 days accident and illness coverage. 
  • At Hickory, we use Trupanion Express, where your bill is immediately approved by Trupanion and they pay the hospital itself. You only have to pay your portion at time of service based on your deductible. 
  • Trupanion is one of many insurance companies, please be sure to do your homework and find the one that is right for you and your kitten.

Optimal Litter Box and How to Create Good Habits

  • How Many Litterboxes should I have?  
    • The rule of thumb is one litter box per cat in the household, plus one more.
  • Location Location Location!
    • Avoid putting food and water near litter box location.
    • Litter boxes should be in more than one location in the house, different floors if applicable.
    • Quiet places to use the litter box and easy to access, try not to make the cat go on an expedition to get to the box. Laundry rooms can be scary when your dryer and washer is running.
  • Size/Type
    • Bigger is generally better.
    • Should be 1.5 times the length of the cat.
    • Try different types, some cats do not like covered boxes and other are frighten by automatic/robot type litter boxes. 
    • Technology! If you like newer tech devices there are litter boxes that can help you monitor elimination output and monitor your pet's weight. Be careful when researching different litter boxes - sometimes the most simplest and reliable device is the old school uncovered litter pan.  
  • Litter
    • Cats sometimes have different preferences for litter, so you may have to try multiple types before finding what they prefer.
    •  1-2 inches of litter in box.
    •  Scoop solid waste and wet litter at least once daily. Dump, wash and refill with clean litter every 2 weeks.

Kitten Dental and Grooming Care

  • It is important to introduce home dental care (tooth brushing, pastes/gels or dental treats) - ask for a free dental kit.
  • You can start this as early as 6 weeks of age to get a kitten more familiar with the process.
    • At 8 weeks, kittens typically have all “baby” teeth visible.
    • At 6-7 months of age all baby teeth are lost and adult teeth should be present.
  • Dental kits come in different sizes. Some include small dental brushes or finger brushes for easy dental brushing. Some owners find it easier to use a moisten wash cloth to apply and rub the specially formulated pet dental tooth paste. 
  • Typically cats do not need to be bathed and tend to groom themselves. Very young kittens may require some basic - wash cloth wiping after meals, an eager hungry kitten can make a mess.
  • They will need their nails trimmed once monthly. As they get older the nail trims can vary between 6-8 weeks.
  • Some cats will need their ears cleaned. Be sure not to over clean ears as they more start to produce excessive wax to make up for excessive drying of the ear canal.
  • Long hair kittens should be brushed daily to avoid excessive matting. Areas to focus is the back of ears, neck, axilla (armpits) belly, hind legs and tail/tail base. Start brushing them when they're young so they can get use to handling and grooming.
  • As the kitten gets older matting may occur, we offer professional grooming services to shave mats or help you maintain a mat free coat on your kitty. Sanitary clips can help keep your kittens rear end clean from bathroom accidents.

Your Kitten/Cat’s Environment

  • Provide a safe place.
    • Examples: cardboard box, cat carrier, raised cat perch.
  • The number of spaces should be the same as the number of cats in the household and only fit one cat at a time.
  • Keep the cat’s carrier out with the door open as a comfortable rest/hiding space.
    • You can use treats or feed in the carrier so they like going in the carrier and taking them to the vet would be easier.
  • Provide multiple and separated key environmental resources.
    • This includes: food, water, toileting areas, scratching areas, resting areas and play areas.
  •  Provide opportunity for play and predatory behavior.
    • Interactive toys that mimic prey: toy mouse, feathers on a wand, food balls/feeders, etc.
  • Provide positive, consistent, and predictable human-cat social interaction.
  • It's important to socialize kittens between 3-9 weeks of age.
  • Each cat has its individual preferences and it is important not to force interaction.
  • Let the cat initiate, choose and control the type of human contact.

The importance of the cat’s sense of smell and natural behavior.

  • Scent marking - cats mark their scent by rubbing their face and body to release pheromones to make them feel safe. This gives them reassurance the space is safe and familiar. Pheromone sprays can be used in carriers and your car to lessen the stress of travel.
    • Feliway pheromone spray or diffuser can be used in new or stressful situations. It helps your cat with the inability to rub on areas to find ease and comfort from threatening smells. Used in an new environment it allows the kitty time to adjust to new sounds and objects.  
  • Nail care - cats scratch objects to keep their nails in good condition and to leave a scent and visual mark.
    • Provide a variety of different types of scratching materials (rope, carpet, cardboard) in prominent locations.
    • Feliscratch is a pheromone scratching attractant that can help direct cats to use the scratching posts and not your furniture!
    • Nail caps (ex. Soft Paws) - Nail caps are an option while training your kitten to use appropriate scratch areas to perform their natural behavior. They are easy to apply or you can schedule an appointment for us to apply them.
    • Regular nail trimming is important for a healthy nail growth while your kitten uses scratching objects

Socializing Kittens

  • Gently give kittens opportunity to be familiar with people and other animals that they will encounter frequently in their adult lives.
  • Gently expose kittens to new things they will deal with regularly as adults so they can react confidently.
  • Be patient, some animals have personalities that may play a factor in interaction with others even if socialized properly

When to socialize?

  • Between 3-9 weeks in kittens is the best time because they form relationships easily.
    • Experiences during this time will have long-lasting effects, so try to avoid negative experiences.

How to socialize the kitten?

  • Minimize discipline/training when socializing.
  • Carefully put your kitten in situations they may face later.
  • Put them in a cat carrier, play with toys, gradually introduce to other animals and new people.
  • Positive interactions at the veterinarian office for biannual and annual exams.
  • Gently touch, hold or restrain your pet everyday – it helps kittens get comfortable being handled and helps with development.
  • Your kitten should meet around 5 new people each week during socialization along with new sights, sounds, tastes and smells.

 What if your kitten isn’t fully vaccinated?

  • It is okay to socialize with fully vaccinated animals, but try to avoid unvaccinated animals.

Kittens Who Bite

  • Why do kittens bite?
    • Play biting or mouthing during play is extremely common.
    • Can be associated with hunting behaviors and is usually associated with chasing or unexpected attacks.
    • Can occur when adult teeth are replacing baby teeth.
    • This can happen if the kitten is scared or trying to get away from a person.
  • How to manage biting.
    • Do not encourage mouthy play or play biting between the pet and humans.
    • Do not play with the kitten with your hands.
    • Find a way to meet the need to bite through play, chewing because of teething and hunting behaviors.
    • Use time outs to de-escalate biting – remove yourself from the pet.
    • Redirect the kitten with something more appropriate to chew such as toys, treat or food puzzles.
    • Reward for good behaviors.

House soiling (Urinating or Defecating Outside of the Litter Box)

  • Apprehension to litter box location, lack of amount of litter boxes and unpleasant type of litter used can be the reason for some litter box accidents. 
  • Uncommon in kittens but something to keep in mind. House soiling can be caused by medical problems such as urinary tract infections, bladder stones, diabetes, inflammatory bowel disease, constipation and arthritis.
  • Most cats that defecate outside of the litter box have a medication condition causing the house soiling.

 Urine marking vs Inappropriate urination

  • Social behavior, leaving a message behind, especially if you have stray in your neighborhood - your cat can be picking up on their scent and trying to mark his territory.
  • Know the difference, cat who "mark" would stand and sprays urine on to vertical surfaces like walls, doors and curtains.
  • Inappropriate urination would be on horizontal areas.
    • Usually on an absorbent surface like carpet, towels, upholstery.
    • Cats squat in the same posture as when urinating in the litter box.
    • Volume of urine output may vary.

Vacationing without your Pet

  • We recommend a pet sitter stopping in to ensure your cat is doing well two to three times daily if you go away for a time.
  • We offer boarding at Hickory Pet Inn. Our “Cat Condos,” are located away from the stress and noise of the dogs.
  • We also have medical boarding options at Hickory Veterinary and Specialty Hospital for your pet that needs a little extra care!

Requirements for boarding at our facilities:

  • Rabies vaccine
  • FVRCP vaccine
  • Wellness exam (if medical boarding)

Indoor vs Outdoor Life Style

  • This is a long on going conversation on whether outdoor life style is better for your cats mental well being vs indoor life style.
  • We like to think safety is the first concern when addressing issue that your kitty can face.
  • The average life span of an outdoor kitty is 2-5 years verses an indoor kitty with 10-20 years!
  • Your kitty can live a long and healthy life indoors as long as you provide the proper environmental stimuli necessary to allow them to do all the natural behaviors they would do outdoors.
  • Please remember there are indoor dangers and you will have to kitten proof your home.
  • Outdoor stimuli can keep your kitty active and healthy but the dangers around them are great.
  • Outdoor cats face many health and safety risks, including traffic incidents, territorial disputes, and exposure to extreme climates.
  • In rural areas there are dangers from predators both animal and non friendly people.
  • Outdoor kitties also are exposed to contaminated soil and water exposing them to toxins and/or internal/external parasites that can make them very sick.
  • Having an outdoor kitty can also take a toll on the young wildlife as new chicks and bunnies are killed in the Spring. 

On your next vet visit, lets discuss the pros and cons of indoor verses outdoor life for your kitty.

Reasons to bring your cat/kitten to the emergency veterinarian:

  •  Not urinating for 12 hours or more.
  •  Not eating or drinking for 1 day.
  •  Vomiting.
  •  Diarrhea.
  •  Difficulty breathing.
  •  Possible toxin exposure.
  •  Neurological issues or seizures.
  •  Limping or lameness.
  •  Vaccine reaction of hives or trouble breathing.
  •  Trauma, bite wounds or bleeding.

Are there any emergency tips that I should know?

  • ABC!
    • A – airway: anything that obstructs the airway prevents oxygen entering the lungs
      • Do your best to clear the airway but be careful of your kitten’s teeth
    • B – breathing: if your kitten isn’t breathing
      • Try gently pumping the chest with the palm of your hand
      • Close the muzzle with your hand and blow into the nostrils
    • C – cardiac function: if you cannot detect a heartbeat by feeling just below the elbow.
      • Try pressing on the chest with your palm - initiating chest compression. 
      • This is an emergency and you should seek veterinary help immediately

We are available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, including holidays for any emergency. If you are not sure if your pet is experiencing an emergency - COME RIGHT IN! Better safe than sorry. There are online courses that offer CPR training for pets . Here is a link to the Red Cross, there is information about pet first aide, cpr training and about CPR procedures for cats and dogs.

  • First aid: use caution as your pet may be in pain or extremely frighten and may bite or scratch
    • Blood loss: Apply pressure and a dressing if the bleeding is from a small wound.
      • If the bleeding persists, this is an emergency.
      • Wounds are treated within 4 hours, they can often be sutured close – longer time periods increase risk of infection and complication
    • Burns and scalds: Cool the burned area with cold water
      • Cover the area with damp towels and contact us.
    • Eye injuries: these are always very painful.
      • If a foreign body can be seen, it may be possible to remove it by rinsing the eye with eye wash.
      • Bring them in as soon as possible.
    • Falls: cats are curious and like to climb.
      • Restrict activity, confine in a box or carrier and contact us
      • If your kitty is vocalizing and unable to walk - confine your kitty in a carrier/box. This is an emergency, please bring them in immediately.

Common Household Products That Are Poisonous to Pets

  • Mothballs, rodenticides and insecticides
    • Symptoms: fever, vomiting, diarrhea, pale or brown gums, weakness or lethargy, labored breathing, tremors and/or seizures
  • Fresh paint or open containers of paint in non-ventilated areas
    • Symptoms: mild GI upset, nausea, vomiting, respiratory irritation and incoordination
  • Ice melt products (sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium salts, etc)
    • Symptoms: GI upset and local dermal irritation
  •  Antifreeze
    • Symptoms: depression, staggering, seizures, increasing drinking and urinating, and vomiting
      • Symptoms may seem to get better within a day, but they will worsen to include kidney failure and likely death
  • Certain foods: chocolate, raw fish, fat trimmings, onions, chives, milk, uncooked eggs, yeast, dough, coffee and alcohol
    • Symptoms: mild GI upset, nausea, vomiting, respiratory irritation, incoordination and at times organ failure
      • Contact poison control if you suspect your pet has gotten into any of the foods lists - visit the ASPCA website for a more detail list.
  • Medicines not meant for kittens or prescribed from your veterinarian
  • Some plants
    • Symptoms: mild to advanced GI upset, nausea, vomiting, respiratory irritation, incoordination and at times organ failure
    • Especially lilies are VERY toxic to cats, and any ingestion of any part of the plant causes kidney failure. 
      • Contact poison control if you suspect your pet has gotten into any of the plants listed - visit the ASPCA website for a more detail list.

Some serious effects of toxins can be: hemorrhagic (bloody) vomiting or diarrhea, raised sodium levels in the blood, irregular heartbeat, rapid and shallow breathing and hyperthermia. These are all considered emergency and require immediate care.